Here is an example of an egress window installed in a basement.  View Photos

In Seattle, converting unfinished basement space to finished space is one of the most popular projects to increase home value.  For the Do-it-yourself handyperson, it can also yield a great bang for your buck. 

Many people finish their basements, create a room with a closet, but skip the window upgrade due to the increased cost and perceived difficulty.  Lack of proper egress is an obvious problem and most Real Estate Agents will point out that fact when you try to sell your home.  Recently this issue has receive more local attention with a basement drowning incident View Article

It is difficult if not impossible to market a home as having a downstairs bedroom when it is more than obvious that one of the most important legal requirements is missing.

Upgrading a window to make it a full egress window is fairly simple with some basic skills and know-how.  Some careful measurements will determine if a window-well is required which will add significantly to the costs.

Building code requires that bedrooms have a means of escape as well as to allow emergency personnel access.  National standards are for 5.7 sq ft of open area and a max interior sill height of 44 inches from the ground.   You can view a nice Diagram Here

To meet these Criteria, I used a casement window.  The actual open space is calculated via a formula as there is space used up by the window frame as well as the hinge.  To figure this out, I visited Seattle Window and Door in the Sodo District.  There I was at least able to talk to someone about what I was trying to do and what size the rough opening would be.  I am sure Home Depot and Lowes  are fine for ordering windows but don't expect a lot of advice. Since this was my first window replacement project, I wanted some customer service and was willing to pay a premium to get the job done right.

The equation they gave me was as follows:

Window height - 4.75 inches X Window width - 11.75 inches.  I based my rough opening on these sizes adding 1 1/2 inch on all sides for fins and final fitting.  You should consult with a window vendor to determine the size requirements for your rough in as they will vary with window manufacturer and style.

After determining the feasibility, I removed the existing window and frame and had a concrete cutting company remove part of the wall.  I carefully measured and re-measured to make certain to allow for the new framing that would be required.  The vertical cuts were aligned with the existing frame for the old window and the horizontal cut was measured to allow for a new header, and a new sill plate while still having the required space for proper egress and not exceeding the maximum sill height.  This is where you put on your thinking cap. I marked it first with chalk, and then masked a line and used orange concrete paint.

I hired National Concrete Cutting.  There is a minimum charge for the visit which covered the cost of the cut. Had I done this before, I probably could have had 2 windows cut out for the same price, but I thought I would start with just one and see how it turned out. The service was professional, they arrived on time, and their rates were on-par with others offering this service.

The concrete cut was quick.  About 20 minutes of cutting plus set-up time.  The cutting tools are hydraulically powered with hoses running from the back of the truck to the tools.  Water is used as a coolant so part of my prep work was to carefully layout plastic in the basement to control the spray and catch the water.  I made a basin with 2 x 4 lumber and black plastic. It worked great and my carpet was mostly dry.  Don't expect a perfect cut. The tools are heavy and some slight irregularities should be expected.

After the concrete was cut I framed the space for the new window, re-measured and went back to order the new window.  Turns out they had a special egress casement window where the hinge was set back and the 11.75 number I used in my initial equations really only needed to be 7.5,  so I ended up with about 6.5 feet of egress and lots of light.

The wait for the new window was a bit excessive.  I was promised a 2 week delivery which turned into 5 weeks.  In the meantime, a sheet of plywood cut and screwed into the new framing kept out the critters.  Still I felt better having done the framing first and going to the window dealer with true measurements.

When the window finally arrived, I rejoiced in the opportunity to install it.  Finned windows are pretty easy to install if the framing is correct and you have some room to level the window.  A few shims, and a simple bubble level and you can screw it right in.

Fitting trim around the window and trying to make it look decent from the outside was the biggest challenge.  I see lots of window replacement projects and most often this is where the home handyman falls short and is left with a rather odd looking finished product. 

There were no stock dimensional lumber products at the Home Depot and rather than running around to get custom millwork, I used my table saw to create the sizes that I need.  Indeed, I probably would not have undertaken this project without a table saw and some confidence that I could fabricate what I needed.

With a little thinking and a big pile of sawdust, I created the fill and trim pieces that I needed at a minimal cost.  Still the install and trim process took most of a day as I repeatedly cut and measured the various pieces that I would need.

While not all homeowners may be comfortable undertaking such a project, with a little patience and the right tools, one can do a nice job and at a minimal cost.

Since I did the labor myself, the overall cost of the project was kept pretty low.  Here is how the numbers broke down.

Window                  $300
Concrete cutting      $350
Lumber etc             $  50

Total                        $700 give or take a bit